We visited Oberammergau in 1972 when we were young and childless. It was full of wood carvers and ornately decorated homes. It was not the year of the Passion play so we were able to take the tour which was probably more interesting and enjoyable to me as the play lasts 8 hours. At that time it began in the morning with a long break for lunch to feed the 3000 people attending. All had to park outside of town and be bused in. People had to check out of their hotels before the morning session of the play so rooms would be ready for the next nights crowd.
Fast forward 40 years. The town looked and felt quite different. We recognized the hotel we had stayed in from which we could see the Passion Theater. We joked that we never could have afforded that location on a year of the play.
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| The Oberammergau I remembered was street after street of houses painted like this |
Actually we were told that the decorations were a kind of colored plaster and so not easy to repair and very expensive to replace. I commented to one resident about this and he became quiet defensive saying no one would remove that art.
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| Hotel Wolf where we stayed in 1972 |
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| Hotel Wolf today where we had our meal |
The colored tiles are part of a heating system used before electricity by the wealthy. We enjoyed our meal here. Behind the light is a crucifix - very common in Bavaria which is very Catholic. Religious symbols are apt to be anywhere.
After lunch we walked down the block to the Passion Theater and that was the biggest shock. I thought they had rebuilt it but apparently it is a new facade. The theater is still in two parts with the audience in a covered space open to the elements in the front. Then a space and the huge stage which is largely open to the elements.also.
The play goes on - rain or shine. We had a very good conversation with the women at the Theater who sells books and tickets for the guided tours. She brought us up to date. In 72 there was great concern that young people were leaving town and there would not be enough to produce the play. They now have two people who alternate with the main roles during a season.
You have to have lived in the town 20 years to be in the play. Others my volunteer for minor roles but they have to be there 2 years before which is when the planning begins. Men have to begin to grow their beards, children are trained for the orchestra at a young age.
The history of the play - the vow,doing it every 10 years if saved from the plague can be found at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oberammergau_Passion_Play
http://www.oberammergau-passion.com/en-us/the-passion-play/the-history/passion-play-history.html
We were told that as many people had to be turned away in 2010 as attended even though the season has been lengthened. They also have changed the schedule so the play begins around noon with a break for dinner and then the rest of the performance in the evening so guests can return to their hotels after the play.
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| The new front of the Passion Theater - entrances are lettered as at many sports stadia |
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| These actually do still exist - your kids won't know what it is! |
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| Seems to be only 2 master wood carver shops left |
